In the magazine's annual America's Best New Restaurant issue, editors Andrew Knowlton and Julia Kramer note that "the tortellini in brodo is just one of the many surprises at this breakout Los Angeles spot."
"With "nose-to-tail" flying around the culinary scene like a swarm of bees, it was only a matter of time until the ethos of full, purposeful utilization made its way into the world of vegetable scraps."
"If you've been to a party in Silver Lake lately, gulped sulfite-free Grenache on a back porch lighted year-round with votive candles and strings of Christmas lights, you know certain things to be true."
"Here Pollack pairs rosy chicken liver crostone with black plum mostarda and his marvelous bread. Handmade tortellini in brodo are plump pockets of proscuitto and broth."
"Now focusing on his first solo project, Alimento, Pollack has taken that sensibility a step further by combining flavors from all over Italy with those that the hip Silver Lake crowd craves."
"Despite the respect for culinary tradition that Pollack demonstrates at every turn, he is more than willing to do away with received wisdom. For instance, he dismisses the idea of al dente as a requirement for quality, noting how those silky tortellini succeed because theyโre pliant and soft."
"Welcome Alimento, a lovely trattoria opening tonight in Silver Lake in the former Back Door Bakery space. From Sotto's Zach Pollack, this ode to all things Italian draws from all over the country's cuisine, like mackerel conserva with white beans, rye tagliatelle in a veal ragu, and maccheroncini with chicken livers and marsala."
"Pollack is best known as one part of the two-man chef team behind Sotto, the Pico Boulevard Southern Italian restaurant that serves some of the city's best Italian food. Pollack and co-chef Steve Samson opened Sotto in 2011 in partnership with restaurateur Bill Chait. While Pollack is still very much a part of Sotto, he's currently focusing about 110% of his energy on his new project."
